Ten observations in ten days from an alien in Japan. All may be written off as highly ignorant, if you're the type of sod who thought Lost in Translation was "lost in racism" because it pointed out that Japanese and American cultures are different.
1. The streets and sidewalks are marvelously clean, but you can smoke and throw your butt anywhere.
2. All television shows seem to take place in a live studio with 10-60 people on camera. They also feature lots of close-ups of food and words all over the screen.
3. Just try to find a way to dry your hands in the bathroom. Paper towels are not a thing here.
4. Fruit is packaged and sold as a luxury good. You want a pear? It will be the size of a softball, wrapped in lacy paper, and cost about $6. You want rice balls? You got 'em.
5. The mainstream boy culture is the same as that of the American nerd fringe. A local 20-something who spent a few years in elementary school in New Jersey explained it to me in a bar in Urawa: "In New Jersey, my mom was always making me play outside. In Japan, there's no place to go play outside. So we play video games."
6. The subway and train systems are marvels of efficiency and effectiveness, but moving around a station requires a bewildering negotiation of hundreds of stairs going in all directions. I would hate to be in a wheelchair here. That said, the trains are sooooo on-time here. 3:02 means freaking 3:02. And, just like they don't in the US, Japanese don't wait for people to exit before entering.
7. I am 6 foot, 2 inches, 190 pounds. That makes me monstrously large.
8. I can't detect any significant element of criminality. While local and national media is all abuzz about a random freeway shooting earlier the week, not a single situation has seemed even mildly menacing yet. Few people bother to lock their bikes or even their cars. And even the homeless people in the park look clean and self-respecting.
9. Japan TV news has been reporting heavily on the American hurricanes and the human disasters that followed. Everybody wants to talk to me about it. It's the biggest American PR disaster since Abu Ghraib.
10. The most popular sport in Japan is the combined at-bats and pitching appearances by Hideki Matsui, Ichiro Suzuki, and three other players in America.
Back next weekend.
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